Transiting the Locks, Part Three

Earlier (March 2nd) I gave an overview of the Hiram Chittendem Locks and then (March 11th) focussed on the Small Lock. Today, let's look at transiting the Large Lock.

THE LARGE LOCK

The large lock, or more accurately the large chamber, lies parallel to the north of the small chamber, and is the one primarily used by large commercial vessels - - tugs, tug and tows, fishers, ferries (coming in to the many repair yards), National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) ships, University of Washington research ships, most anything with close to over a 28' beam or a 150' length (the dimensions of the small chamber).

At times, especially when there is a lot of recreational boat traffic (such as at the beginning and ending of the Memorial Day or Labor Day weekends), or when there is still room after a large vessel is in the lock, smaller boats can be directed into this lock. Sometimes one wonders why the large chamber and not the small, or visa-versa; Only the lock master knows, it seems. Not always obvious, the large lock has gates mid-way in the chamber which can reduce the 825' length in half if a "smaller" locking is called for.

The big difference between the chambers is that while the small chamber has the "floating" steel guide walls that rise and fall with the water level, the large chamber has nothing like that. The lock walls don't move, and the bollards are fixed at the top of the walls. This effects how you secure your boat, as you'll soon see.

PREPARING FOR BOTH DIRECTIONS

(Much of this is a repeat from Part Two: Small Locks)

Coil or flake the 50' lock lines, working out any tangles, and place them at the bow and at the stern. Don't fasten or cleat them just yet.

Rig your fenders, three or four, so that they protect the widest part of the hull, normally snugged up to or even just on, the rub-rail.

Wise to don life jackets - - a must for children and pets if they are on deck. We keep our dog inside during a locking.

Make sure the reverse gear is working well, as you will need to be able to back down to stop.

There are speed limits. From the west entrance buoys (Red #2, Green #1) into Shilshole Bay all the way through the ship canal to Lake Washington it is 7 knots or no-wake, whichever is the slowest. Within this, between either end of the long lock piers it's 4 knots. And within the chambers themselves it's 2.5 knots.

APPROACHING WESTBOUND (FROM THE FRESH WATER SIDE)

Initially, you will not know which chamber you will be told to user; You need to be prepared for either. It helps to have a lookout forward to watch for signals from the locks as you'll probably be focussed on maneuvering your vessel.

There are signal lights. For the large chamber they are on the north wall. For the small chamber they are on the wall that separates the two chambers.

If the signal lights are red you need to wait. You can either tie up on the north waiting wall or drift around rather than tie up. If the latter, be aware of boats coming out the locks. Also, sometimes the lock attendants are not always sure if you really want to lock through, or merely touring to look at the locks. We prefer to drift unless the wait looks to be really lengthy.

Be patient. Sometimes, with luck, you putter right in as soon as you get to the locks. At other times you may wait, even for several hours or more. So, be patient and calm.

ENTERING WESTBOUND

When the light for the large chamber (the one on the north wall of the large chamber) changes from red to green you can enter the large chamber. Generally, as soon as the light changes the lock master will announce over the PA system that larger vessels are to enter first, and then smaller ones. (My 47' boat is usually considered a "larger" vessel). Unless otherwise instructed, and with that proviso, entrance is on a first-come-first-in basis. To accommodate as many boats as possible, larger boats are tied to the wall and smaller boats rafted to the larger boats.

Move in slowly and cautiously at your own comfort speed- - the lock attendants will never rush you. Watch for a signal from the attendant (they give clear pointing gestures) as to which side of the chamber you'll tie to, usually the north side. As you get further in the attendant will instruct you where to tie or raft. You will need to have a crew member stand by on each your bow and stern lines.

If instructed to tie to the wall, take the boat up as far in as the attendant signals you and and close to the wall without scraping. Then hand the eye of your stern lock line and of your forward lock line to the attendants who will walk alongside you (as in walking a dog)  and put each line on a bollard, stern line first to stop your forward motion. You then take in the slack, pulling the boat up against the wall, and cleat down. Now get ready to help those rafting to you, assisting them as needed and making sure that you are well fended off from them. Have them use their own lines, looped over your cleat, and then back to them. This way they control the lines when they need to cast off.

There could be two, or even three, smaller boats all rafted abreast of you.

If you are instructed to raft to another boat (the attendant will tell you which one) first have the eye of your stern lock line and of your forward lock line cleated on that side. Come alongside gently and hand first your stern, then your bow lines to the crew of the boat you're rafting to. Get them to loop the line over their cleat, then you take in the slack tight and tie it down on your boat. This way you control the lines when you need to cast off. Check your fenders, and get ready, if needed, to help someone raft to you.

All this takes some time, so be patient.

When all is ready the lock master will announce that the water level is going down and to stand by your lines.

If you are on the wall, you'll have some work to do. Slip a few turns of your lines off the cleat so that the cleat can act as a brake to control your letting line out. Don't rely on brute strength - - you'll probably lose! Use the cleat. As the water level drops slowly let out the lines, yet keeping your boat against the wall. Expect some slight outbound current as the water level drops. You'll find that the stern line gets most of the work to hold the boat against the wall. The added weight of the boats rafted to you also adds to your work.

If you're a rafted boat, no need to do much except to be alert and make sure you continue to lie snug against the boat you're rafted to. Watch that your fenders are where you want them.

Once down to the tide level (it takes about 15 minutes), the lock master will instruct you to tie down your lines. Then the forward lock gates are opened. Expect some outbound current as the tidal water and the water in the chamber combine and settle. Then, and only on the lock attendant's instruction, be prepared to cast off.

If you're a rafted boat you will be instructed to leave first. When told, slip your lines free (hopefully the boat you're rafted to will help), bow line first, then stern. Now ease you boat forward out of the chamber.

If you are on the wall, when ready the lock attendant will thrown down first your bow line, then your stern line. The attendant may ask for a little slack to get the eye off the bollard. Now ease you boat forward out of the chamber.

As you clear the south pier of the locks be alert for the current from the dam spillway tending to push you to starboard.

A couple of points I missed in the earlier posts explaining the locks. Sometimes when the BNSF railway bridge (a 100 yards west of the lock exit) is in the down position and the tide is high, expect to see sailboats milling around between the locks and the bridge waiting for it to raise - - there is only 43' clearance at high tide. You'll have to carefully navigate through them. Second, kayaks, canoes, and other non-motorized craft are ONLY allowed in the small lock.

As you continue on at 7 knots to the west entrance of the channel, secure your fenders and clean up your lines, and when you reach the Red #2 and Green #1 buoys, you're all set to head to your destination.

APPROACHING EASTBOUND (FROM THE SALTWATER SIDE)

Again, initially you will not know which chamber you will be told to enter; be prepared for either. 

There are two sets of signal lights for the large chamber, one on the pier northwest of the railroad bridge, and another on the end of the concrete wall that separates the two chambers. The lights on the wall are paired with those for the small chamber; the large lock lights are on the left.

Again, unless there is a lot of traffic inbound assume that you will be using the small chamber.

If the signal lights are red you need to wait. You can either tie up on the south waiting wall under the railroad bridge or drift around to the west of the bridge, keeping somewhat to the south so as not to impede traffic coming out of the locks. Again. we prefer to drift unless the wait looks to be really lengthy, or the wind and current are a bit too strong.

ENTERING EASTBOUND

When the lights for the large chamber change to green  start moving ahead to enter the chamber. Generally, as soon as the light changes the lock master will announce over the PA system that larger vessels are to enter first, and then smaller ones. Unless otherwise instructed, and with that proviso, entrance is on a first-come-first-in basis. To accommodate as many boats as possible, larger boats are tied to the wall and smaller boats rafted to the larger boat.

As you approach the locks be alert for the current from the dam spillway tending to push you to port.

Move in slowly and cautiously at your own comfort speed- - the lock attendants will never rush you. Watch for a signal from the attendants as to which side of the chamber you'll tie to, usually the north side.

You will need to have a crew member stand by on each your bow and stern lines.

If instructed to tie to the wall, take the boat up as far in as the attendant signals you and close to the wall without scraping. Because you are well below the top of the wall, the attendant will throw down the end of a light messenger-line. Tie the eye of your stern lockline to this line so that the attendant can pull up your line and loop the eye over a bollard (thus stopping your forward motion). Then the same thing with your forward line. You then take in the slack pulling the boat up against the wall. and cleat down. Now get ready to help those rafting to you, assisting them as needed and making sure that you are fended off from them. Have them use their lines, looped over your cleat, and then back to them. This way they control the lines when they need to cast off.

There could be two, or even three, smaller boats all rafted abeam off you.

If you are instructed to raft to another boat (the attendant will tell you which one) it is the same procedure as going outbound. First have the eye of your stern lock line and of your forward lock line cleated on that side. Come alongside gently and hand first your stern, then your bow lines to the crew of the boat you're rafting to. Get them to loop the line over their cleat, then you take in the slack tight and tie it down on your boat. This way you control the lines when you need to cast off. Check your fenders, and get ready, if needed, to help someone raft to you.

All this takes some time, so be patient.

As with going outbound (westbound), when all is ready the lock master will announce that the water level is rising and to stand by your lines.

If you are on the wall, you'll have some work. Slip off a few turns of your lines off the cleat so that the cleat can act as a brake to control pulling the line in. Again, don't rely on brute strength; Use the cleat. As the water level rises keep pulling in the lines, keeping your boat against the wall. Expect some slight outbound current as the water level rises You'll find that the stern line gets most of the work to hold the boat against the wall.

If you're a rafted boat, no need to do much except to be alert and make sure you continue to lie snug against the boat you're rafted to. Watch that your fenders are where you want them.

Once up to the fresh water level (it takes about 15 minutes), the lock master will instruct you to tie down your lines. Then the forward lock gates are opened. Expect some inbound current as the fresh water and the water in the chamber combine and settle. If there is a large vessel ahead of you, expect a strong stern wash coming at you as she gains power to exit.

Then, and only on the lock attendant's instruction, be prepared to cast off.

If you're a rafted boat you will be instructed to leave first. Slip your lines free (hopefully the boat you're rafted to will help), stern line first, then bow. Now ease you boat forward out of the chamber.

If you are on the wall, when ready the lock attendant will release first your stern line, then your bow line. The attendant may ask for a little slack to get the eyes off the bollards. Now ease you boat forward out of the chamber.

As you clear the locks secure your fenders and clean up your lines. Remember, it is 7 knots/no wake all the way to Lake Washington.

SOME HELPFUL HINTS

With the small chamber you keep the eye of the line aboard; with the large you give over the eye to the lock attendant.

Outbound (westbound) you release the bow line first, then the stern line, when leaving either lock; Inbound (eastbound) you release the stern line first, then the bow line, when leaving. Remember, always release the saltwater-end lines first, outbound as well as inbound!

If you would like a free copy of  "Transiting the Locks", an advanced module in my Training & Reference Manual, I'll be happy to send one to you. Simply post a comment (below) to let me know.